What’s it like to visit the famous art island of Naoshima?
The art island of Naoshima is one of the most unique experiences in Japan.
It’s a rural island with beautiful scenery that’s become a contemporary art hub.
When you visit Naoshima you can expect to see innovative, top-level museums, galleries, alternative art spaces, and public art, all designed to interact with the rural nature of the island.
Add to that some amazing minimalist Japanese architecture and zen spaces, and you’ll get a real treat for art lovers.
All of these have made the island famous.
I’ve always wanted to visit Naoshima, but it’s a bit far from the “classic” Japan route (Tokyo-Osaka-Kyoto) that I took on my first trip to Japan.
That’s why on my second visit to Japan, I planned to stay in a nearby city, so I’d have access to the island.
The nearby city is called Takamatsu. It has a port and a rather convenient ferry service to Naoshima Island.
I did a lot of research on Naoshima before going there and created this guide to help you plan your own visit to Naoshima.
Table of contents
Planning a Naoshima day trip
When you plan a Naoshima day trip, you have two decisions to make first:
- Where to depart from
- DIY or guided tour?
Where to depart from for your Naoshima day trip
You can visit Naoshima from Takamatsu as I did, but also from the city of Okayama, though the trip takes a bit longer.
I chose Takamatsu over Okayama as it was the easier option.
I also found some great things to do in the city of Takamatsu itself and had a nice stay there.
I’ll explain how to get to Naoshima from Takamatsu later in this post.
It’s even possible to visit Naoshima from Osaka or Kyoto, but I think you’d need more than one day. It’s doable as a day trip, but I believe it would be rushed and probably quite tiring.
DIY or guided tour?
The second decision you want to make is whether you’re going to take this trip independently or on a guided tour.
I planned an independent trip, mainly because I wanted a flexible schedule, so I’d have time for contemplation when looking at the art.
The downside of planning an independent Naoshima day trip was that it took me quite a bit of time to gather and translate all the information about the museums and other art spaces, opening hours of each, ticket prices, where to get tickets, transport options to the island and around the island, bus an ferry schedules, etc.
I included that information in this guide, so I hope it will make planning easier for you.
The alternative to planning an independent Naoshima day trip is taking a guided tour.
That’s definitely a simpler option, as you won’t have to worry at all about the logistics.
Though Naoshima is geared for tourists, and even though I did my homework before going, there were still quite a few moments of confusion when I wished I’d had a guide with me.
A good guide should also be able to tell you some interesting stories about the island, the art spaces, and the artworks.
Naoshima guided tours
Browse more guided Naoshima tours
You can also reach Naoshima independently and then take a guided cycling tour while you’re there.
Naoshima museum tickets
Naoshima has several art spaces, all of which require tickets.
You can buy tickets when you arrive at Naoshima or book online.
I strongly recommend you book tickets online.
At some of the museums, tickets may sell out on some days, so it’s best to book in advance.
For the ones that are not likely to sell out, it’s still much easier to come prepared and just scan your ticket at the entrance, instead of standing in line for payment.
The official booking site has an English version. It highlights in red for which museums it’s recommended to make reservations in advance.
After booking, I recommend you screenshot your ticket QR codes, in case your mobile data stops working on the island (as mine did…).
How to get to Naoshima from Takamatsu
You get from Takamatsu to Naoshima on a ferry or a high-speed boat.
The port in Takamatsu has ferries and boats to various other islands. It has clear signage in English directing you to the Naoshima ticket desk.
See the ferry and boat timetables here. Naoshima has two ports and the one you want to reach from Takamatsu is called Miyanoura.
I bought the ferry ticket on the same day, so there’s no need to buy it in advance. I got a return ticket for a small discount.
This being Japan, everything is well-organised, easy to find, and runs according to schedule.
The ferry ride from Takamatsu to Naoshima
Once on board, I followed the people who seemed to know what they were doing. They were rushing to the windows facing the water on the right-hand side of the ferry. I found a good seat there just in time before that row was full.
The other seats don’t face the water but they also have large windows, so you’ll be able to see the water and other islands along the way.
Upstairs there’s a sun deck. I went up there for some fresh air (there was no sun that day…). The view is lovely and so very relaxing.
The ferry ride took 50 minutes. The high-speed boat takes 30 minutes but has a different schedule.
Getting to Naoshima from other places in Japan
From Tokyo, Osaka or Kyoto, you’ll need to take a train to Okayama Station, a major transport hub. From there take a JR Uno Line to Uno Station. Next, take a ferry from Uno Port to Naoshima.
The JR Pass covers the trains on these routes, but not the ferries.
Another option it to visit Naoshima from Osaka or Kyoto on a 2-day guided tour.
Naoshima day trip itinerary
When the ferry got closer to Naoshima, we could see the famous red pumpkin by Yayoi Kusama on the shore.
The visit to the pumpkin can wait for later because you want to catch the local bus that’s scheduled to arrive just after the ferry reaches the port.
Taking the Naoshima local bus and shuttle bus
The bus stop is to your right when you disembark.
I should also mention that you can rent a bicycle to travel around the island. You’ll find the rental shop in front of the port. Bear in mind the island can be hilly in parts.
Buses get full quite quickly so you may have to stand up, but it’s a short ride.
Looking outside the window on this bus ride was a nice introduction for me to the scenery of the island, the small rural houses, and some locals who live there.
You pay the driver in cash when you get off the bus. It’s a good idea to have the exact fare ready in your pocket.
The names of the bus stops are announced in English and Japanese. Get off at Tsutsuji-so.
From the Tsutsuji-so bus stop, change to a free shuttle bus that takes you to the first museum. It runs between the museums in the south of the island.
If you miss the bus for some reason, you can also walk along the beach, but it would obviously take longer.
The shuttle bus ride only takes a couple of minutes. Get off at Benesse House Museum and now you can finally start your Naoshima museum experience.
Naoshima museums
Benesse House Museum
From the bus stop go uphill to enter the museum.
It’s a medium-sized museum but the building is playful, it has many different spaces to discover.
You can pick up a museum map when you enter, but I enjoyed exploring the spaces without the map.
It’s a contemporary art museum featuring both Japanese and international artists.
The collection is quite varied. I’ve read some reviews that said you could see this kind of contemporary artworks anywhere. However, this is not just about the artworks.
One of the most unique things about the museums in Naoshima is the interaction between their architecture and the surrounding nature.
At Benesse House Museum you have a mix of indoor and outdoor galleries and an amazing view of the beach from the hilltop.
The entire space has some incredible minimalist architecture by Japanese architect Tadao Ando.
Valley Gallery
As you exit Benesse House Museum, go downhill and turn right. It takes about 10 minutes to walk to the next stop, Valley Gallery.
I walked by the beach with the most relaxing views. You’ll see Valley Gallery on your right.
Use the same ticket as Benesse House Museum to enter.
I walked along a path leading to the tiny gallery, which has an outdoor exhibition that continues later inside the gallery.
It was a huge collection of stainless steel spheres, part of the work of Yayoi Kusama called “Narcissus Garden”.
I later recalled having seen the Narcissus Garden installation in another Yayoi Kusama exhibition. That was inside a room in a museum in another city, but seeing the spheres on the grass and inside a pond made them look even more surreal.
At the end of the path, you reach a structure that looks a bit like concrete origami. Inside, you’ll find the stainless steel spheres again, underneath a skylight at a strange angle.
This is another creation by architect Tadao Ando. One of the things he’s best known for is using natural light.
I don’t think I’ve ever seen art, nature, and architecture interact in such an interesting way anywhere else. This was one of my favourite experiences in Naoshima.
Lee Ufan Museum
Across the road from Valley Gallery, go down the stairs into a sculpture park overlooking the water.
One of the sculptures is a concrete pole, which is where the Lee Ufan Museum experience begins.
I walked through a concrete corridor with no roof to enter the museum building.
When you enter, the staff will ask you not to take photos inside (I saw some people who did and got told off by the staff…)
This museum features sculptures, installations, and paintings by contemporary artist Lee Ufan.
His style is abstract, minimalist, and contemplative. He was one of the leaders of an art movement called Mono-ha, exploring the interaction between natural and industrial materials.
As you can see, it’s a recurring theme in Naoshima.
The building was also designed by Ando Tadao. You’ll have recognised his style by now. It’s a concrete building that’s mostly dark inside, with illuminated artworks.
Chichu Art Museum
Walk to the next museum, Chichu Art Museum. It’s about 10 minutes on foot. This museum is up a hill.
It’s one of the most popular places to visit in Naoshima and one of the museums you definitely want to reserve a ticket for online in advance.
The number of visitors is controlled, and even when you’re inside, you sometimes have to queue for some galleries.
Chichu Art Museum is an incredible architectural creation, again by Ando Tadao.
When I first entered it felt like a concrete maze. It takes a while to reach the artworks, but then you realise that the building itself is a work of art.
The bewildered look on the faces of some of the other visitors suggested not everyone appreciated it in the same way.
Prepare to go up and down various staircases and look at the building structure from different angles with natural light and shade changing as you move around.
If you love minimalist architecture and geometric playfulness like me, you’ll probably enjoy it. Otherwise, you can always use the elevator.
Chichu Art Museum has a small but impactful art collection.
It features works by American artist James Turrell, who belongs to the aptly named Light and Space movement.
Sitting in a room, looking up and seeing the sky through a frameless window was a surprisingly satisfying experience. So simple, yet so impressive.
Other galleries at Chichu Art Museum feature Claude Monet’s “Water Lilies” illuminated by natural light, and a massive installation called “Time/Timeless/No Time” by Walter De Maria.
There was another small gallery which I won’t describe here as I don’t want to spoil the effect. It was pretty mind blowing.
Sugimoto Hiroshi Gallery
At this point in this Naoshima itinerary, take the free shuttle bus again back to Tsutsuji-so. From there walk for less than 10 minutes to the next art space: Sugimoto Hiroshi Gallery.
It’s dedicated to Hiroshi Sugimoto’s photography and sculptures.
The Yellow Pumpkin
The zen atmosphere and artistic introspection I experienced at the museums were replaced by a smirk at the curious view of people standing in line to take pictures with a pumpkin.
But that was to be expected. This iconic Yayoi Kusama pumpkin is the most famous symbol of Naoshima.
You can view it on the beach before you board the bus to the other part of the island.
Naoshima Art House Project
The second part of this Naoshima day trip itinerary is on the other part of the island.
From Tsutsuji-so station, take the Naoshima town bus to Nokyo-mae. This isn’t the free shuttle anymore, but a local bus, so have the exact fare in cash ready to pay the driver when you get off.
In the Art House Project, contemporary artists were invited to create installations inside and around some abandoned houses, a temple and a shrine.
I recommend buying a multi-site ticket for these five houses: Kadoya, Go’o Shrine, Ishibashi, Gokaisho and Haisha. It works out much cheaper than individual tickets and will also save you a lot of time.
Two other houses require separate tickets. These are called Minamidera and Kinza.
When you get off the bus at Nokyo-mae, step into the Honmura Lounge which is next to the bus stop to pick up a map of the Art House Project.
Then just start walking around the small streets and exploring the Art Houses. They’re all within walking distance from each other.
You’ll be walking around the local streets, where people actually live and work (as Naoshima isn’t just about art spaces). There are more cafes and shops in this part of the tour.
The map was simple to use, but I also asked the staff at some of the houses how to get to the next house, and they were always friendly and happy to help me with directions.
Each house is totally unique. No spoilers here, but there are many unexpected surprises in each art house and that’s really something you want to experience for yourself.
Close to the Art House Project is the Ando Museum, dedicated to the star architect of the island. If you’re in for even more concrete and minimalism, you may want to visit this museum too.
The Red Pumpkin and Naoshima Pavilion at Miyanoura Port
After you finish viewing the Art House Project, go back to the same bus stop (next to the Honmura Lounge) and take the Naoshima town bus back to Miyanoura Port.
When I visited, the bus departed at 4:19 PM and the ferry to Takamatsu was at 5:00 PM (do check the timetables before you go so you don’t miss the last bus).
I had about 20 minutes to explore the port area, before joining the queue for the ferry.
The famous red pumpkin by Yayoi Kusama is just next to the port. It’s super popular, just like the yellow pumpkin. You can also go inside the pumpkin and look at the sea from the small windows within the pumpkin.
A few minutes from there there’s another interesting sculpture called Naoshima Pavilion by Sou Fujimoto.
It’s made out of stainless steel mesh triangles and looks a bit like a small island.
From there I walked back to the port and took the last ferry back to Takamatsu. There was a person holding a sign directing you to the queue, and again everything was well-organised and went smoothly.
That’s it for my itinerary that lets you see Naoshima in one day from Takamatsu.
Next, I’ll answer some common questions and share information from my own research.
Is Naoshima worth visiting?
Yes, if you love contemporary art.
And if you’re a fan of minimalist art and architecture, you’re in for a treat.
Even though Naoshima is very popular and some of the artworks certainly have that ‘wow’ effect, I think overall the art makes little effort to appeal to the masses.
If you tend to roll your eyes at contemporary art and blurt out “A 5 year old can do this”, then skip this day trip to Naoshima. There are plenty of other places to see in Japan.
Naoshima day trip tips and FAQ
Below are some extra tips and answers to questions about planning a trip to Naoshima.
Can you see Takamatsu and Naoshima on the same day?
Seeing both Naoshima and Takamatsu on the same day would be quite difficult, given the opening hours of the attractions.
I’d say you need at least half a day for Takamatsu and a day for Naoshima.
You can take a half-day tour to see the highlights in Takamatsu. If you’re short on time, but still don’t want to miss out on Ritsurin Garden and other Takamatsu attractions, this compact half-day tour may be a good solution.
How long to stay in Naoshima?
If you’re going to Naoshima on a day trip from Takamatsu (as I did) you can see the island in one day. That’s one of the reasons why I picked Takamatsu as my base.
If you’re coming from farther away, then it may be wiser to stay overnight. You can also stay for more than one night and visit other art islands nearby.
Where to stay in Naoshima?
There are some accommodation options in Naoshima, including:
What are the other art islands apart from Naoshima?
In the Seto Inland Sea region there are other islands you can visit.
Teshima Island is close to Naoshima and is home to the Teshima Art Museum, contemporary art installations and museums, such as the Les Archives du Coeur project.
On Inujima Island you’ll find the “Inujima Seirensho Art Museum” and other art installations and sculptures.
Other islands include Shodoshima and Megijima.
What about food in Naoshima?
You can stop for lunch at several places along the way, such as Chichu Cafe, Benesse House Restaurant, or Aisunao Restaurant.
All of these are on the list of places to eat with vegan options in Naoshima.
I recommend you check their opening times in advance and also bring some snacks with you, just in case.
What are the opening times of Naoshima museums?
You can check the opening times here.
When is the best time to visit Naoshima?
The best time to visit Naoshima is during the Setouchi Triennale Art Festival. It’s a contemporary art festival with plenty of art events taking place on Naoshima and on the other art islands nearby.
It happens once every three years, but if you can visit Naoshima during the festival, it’s best to go there during the spring or autumn for the most comfortable weather.
Money tips for Naoshima
I recommend you book tickets to the museums and art houses in advance. You’ll get a small discount on each booking.
For the Naoshima town bus, carry the exact fare in cash with you. You pay the driver when you get off the bus.
I also paid for the ferry ticket in cash. There’s a discount on a return ticket.
Naoshima shoe tips
You’ll be asked to take your shoes off a few times in different galleries in Naoshima, so wear a good pair of socks and preferably slip-on shoes if you can.
There’s quite a bit of uphill climbing and stairs around Naoshima, so come prepared and wear comfortable shoes.
Internet connection in Naoshima
I used a Japanese SIM card for data, but the signal was lost at some point on the island. It came back later but was unreliable.
That’s why I recommend you take screenshots of timetables, opening hours, and your ticket QR codes, just in case your mobile data doesn’t work.
There’s free wifi at the Benesse House Museum and also at the Chichu Museum bus stop.
Is there a good video guide to Naoshima?
I recommend you watch this YouTube video. It helped me get a better idea of what to expect before I took my day trip.
Who’s Ando Tadao?
The iconic Japanese architect you’ll encounter quite a few times around Naoshima.
He’s best known for his minimalist design, using raw concrete and natural light.
I was surprised to find that he’s a self-taught architect who won the Pritzker Prize.
When you visit Naoshima, you’ll notice his love for geometric shapes and how he seamlessly integrates the buildings with the surrounding nature.
This article is now featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Naoshima.
Have you been to Naoshima? Feel free to share your impressions in the comments.
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