Visiting Livraria Lello in Porto: my honest experience and practical tips

Visiting Livraria Lello in Porto – is it worth the hype? What’s it like? What to expect? Here’s your guide to the most beautiful interiors in Portugal.

Livraria Lello is a gorgeous historic bookshop that rose to fame thanks to Harry Potter.

It’s one of the most visited places in Porto and also one of the most debated.

Some people call it magical, others say it is overcrowded and overhyped.

After visiting Livraria Lello myself, I think it’s worth visiting if you arrive with the right expectations, namely, it’s more a popular tourist attraction than a bookshop.

And of course I believe visiting Livraria Lello is worth it for people who admire great architecture and interiors.

I happen to be one of those people, so I really enjoyed my visit.

How much you enjoy visiting Livraria Lello it depends on when you go. Picking a less busy time slot certainly helps.

In this guide I explain what visiting Livraria Lello is like, what to expect when you visit, design details to notice, and how to decide if buying a ticket makes sense for your trip.

What is Livraria Lello?

Livraria Lello is a historic bookshop in central Porto that dates back to 1906.

It is known for its stunning interior, carved wooden shelves, stained glass ceiling, and the famous red staircase that curves through the centre of the space.

The bookshop is often linked to J K Rowling and the Harry Potter series.

This connection turned this little bookshop into a massive tourist attraction.

To see it, you need to book tickets in advance with a time slot. From my own experience, tickets sell out quickly even in off season.

Despite its fame, Livraria Lello still functions as a bookshop (it’s worth mentioning that “Livraria” is Portuguese for bookshop, not library), but a very touristy one.

What has Livraria Lello got to do with Harry Potter?

Livraria Lello is believed to have been the inspiration for Hogwarts.

Specifically, the design of the staircase is said to resemble the moving staircase at Hogwarts.

Whether it was the muse for Hogwarts or not, this beautiful bookshop gained international fame thanks to this widespread belief.

It is now part of the Harry Potter’s Inspiration Tour that takes you through the city to places that, presumably, influenced the creations of Harry Potter.

You don’t have to be a huge Harry Potter fan to visit it though. I visited as an architecture buff, because the interior is so beautiful.

My experience visiting Livraria Lello

When I visited Livraria Lello, I instantly saw why it’s been called the most beautiful bookshop in the world.

The interior really is striking. I noticed the same look of awe on the face of every person who came in, the moment they stepped in and looked up.

For me it was much more beautiful than many of the churches I’ve been to in Portugal.

Here’s what you’ll see inside.

The Livraria Lello staircase

The iconic, red staircase is the focal point that attracts most of the attention.

It’s one of the most photographed staircases in the world.

It wasn’t easy to take photos of it without people in the frame, but at one point of my visit, around 5 pm, I managed to snap a few photos without interruption.

This famous staircase is in the Art Nouveau style. Its flowing form sits beautifully within the Neo-Gothic surroundings of the bookshop.

It flows upward in a sinuous, double-curved design and splits into two directions. That’s very Art Nouveau: organic, wave-like shapes.

The flow upwards is why I saw so many looks of awe on people’s faces as they stepped into the shop.

The deep crimson red is striking and unconventional. It makes the entire space look more dramatic and theatrical. I think warm colours are wonderful in a bookshop.

The staircase looks like it’s floating in the air. It’s a self-supporting structure, meaning it doesn’t rely on visible supports underneath. That’s also what makes it resemble the staircase at Hogwarts.

The stained glass ceiling

Look up to see the glass ceiling above the staircase. It’s a stained glass skylight bringing in diffused natural light.

The skylight bears the phrase “Decus in Labore” (Dignity in Work), the founding motto of this bookshop.

Like the staircase, the skylight also features Art Nouveau design elements, like organic patterns with floral and geometric motifs.

The brightly colourful glass contrasts beautifully with the red and brown tones of the bookshop.

If the staircase gives the space a theatrical vibe, the stained glass transforms it into a spiritual space, like medieval cathedral windows.

More details to notice when visiting Livraria Lello

Beyond the famous staircase and ceiling, Livraria Lello is filled with decorative details worth paying attention to.

I noticed the use of mirrors to make the space look larger, and I liked the way the skylight is reflected in the mirrors.

There are carved wood portraits that you can see when you look closely at the wooden bookcases and walls. You’ll see portraits of Portuguese literary figures.

The gallery level has balconies from which I got the best views of the entire space, looking both up, down, and across. It’s interesting to view it from different angles.

Do you need to book tickets in advance for Livraria Lello?

Yes, booking in advance is the best option.

You cannot simply walk in and browse as you would in a normal bookshop.

There are two ticket types, silver and gold, both with a time slot.

The gold ticket is a skip-the-line ticket, which was the one I got.

When I arrived, I found that skip-the-line actually meant there was no line at all. There was nobody in the gold queue, so I just walked right in, while about 20+ people were waiting in the silver queue.

I’m glad I paid a little bit extra to avoid this waste of time.

That bit extra was also worth it as you gain back the price you pay for the ticket by redeeming it against the price of a book you buy from the bookshop.

Tip: Livraria Lello produces its own editions of classic books in different languages. Many of them are conveniently priced at exactly the same price as the gold ticket.

How long in advance should you book?

I encourage you to book way in advance. Don’t wait for the last moment, because tickets do sell fast.

While I was working on a plan for my trip to Porto, I wasn’t sure exactly when I’d visit, so it took me too long to book. I ended up booking quite late and choosing from only four time slots that were left available…

Is Livraria Lello worth visiting?

Livraria Lello is worth visiting if:

• It’s your first time in Porto
• You love historic interiors and architecture
• You book a skip-the-line ticket
• You’re a serious Harry Potter fan
• You arrive with realistic expectations about the popularity of the place

It may not be worth it if:

• You’re visiting in high season and really dislike crowds
• You’re indifferent to gorgeous interiors
• You want a calm place to read or browse books

Before visiting Livraria Lello, I’d heard from some other visitors that they felt disappointed as it was too touristy. The crowds ruined the experience for them.

For me the experience was still worth it.

That’s partly because I knew what to expect (a popular tourist attraction) and also because I did get to see everything I wanted around the shop and take as many pictures as I liked.

My time slot was in the late afternoon on a weekday in off-season, so the place was a little less busy than usual.

Visiting Livraria Lello in high season may be less pleasant. I suggest you book well in advance, so you can enjoy a relatively calm time slot: as early as possible in the morning, lunch time, or late afternoon.

All in all, it definitely was a beautiful and memorable stop on my trip to Porto.

Practical info about visiting Livraria Lello

How to get to Livraria Lello?

The full address is: Rua das Carmelitas, 144, 4050-161 Porto, Portugal.

It’s in the historic centre of Porto. You can get there on foot from most other city centre attractions.

To reach it by public transport, take the metro to São Bento station, it’s under 10 minutes away on foot.

If you’re coming by train, go to São Bento railway station and walk from there.

If you’re taking the bus, the nearest stop is Cordoaria.

How much time to spend inside Livraria Lello?

Allow about 30 minutes to visit inside Livraria Lello.

I spent a bit longer, because I couldn’t stop taking photos… and also because I needed extra time to pick a book to buy against the ticket price.

There’s no time limit for your visit once you’re inside.

30 minutes will give you enough time to:

• Walk through the main space
• Go up and down the staircase
• Look at the stained glass ceiling
• Browse a few shelves
• Take photos

Best time for visiting Livraria Lello

Late mornings and early afternoons are usually the busiest.

Lunch time and late afternoons are less busy.

Weekdays are generally calmer than weekends.

Is there a guided tour of Livraria Lello?

The entry ticket doesn’t include a guided tour of the bookshop.

There are some guided tours in Porto that include the Lello Bookshop as part of their route.

Can you take photos inside Livraria Lello?

Yes, you can take photos inside the bookshop.

Photography is allowed, and many people visit specifically to take photos.

Visiting Livraria Lello – FAQ

Do you get a free book at Livraria Lello?

You can choose a book from the bookshop collection and redeem your entry ticket for the price of the book.

Is it worth booking Livraria Lello skip-the-line tickets?

From my experience, yes. The skip-the-line gold ticket means you will enter without any waiting at all.

The price is only slightly higher than the silver ticket, but you get to redeem the ticket for the price of a book anyway.

Does Livraria Lello have books in English?

Yes, plenty, and not just in English, but also in other languages beyond Portuguese, including Spanish, French, Italian, and German.

There are signs above each shelf indicating the language.

I was going to buy a book in English, but ended up picking an edition of The Little Prince in Spanish (because I’m learning Spanish and it wouldn’t hurt to get some practice with a familiar book).

What kind of books are sold at Livraria Lello?

Mainly classic literature translated into different languages.

Books like Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, Animal Farm, Anna Karenina, The Little Prince, Peter Pan, short stories by Edgar Alan Poe, Pride and Prejudice, famous Shakespeare plays, some Sherlock Holmes stories.

Most of these are Livraria Lello’s own editions.

I also saw contemporary books on some shelves, including non-fiction titles and Porto travel books.

There are a few shelves for children’s books.

What’s the architectural style of Livraria Lello?

The architectural style of Livraria Lello is the Neo Gothic style with Art Nouveau elements.

The Neo-Gothic style, also called Gothic Revival, emerged in the late 18th century.

Architects looked back to medieval Gothic cathedrals for nostalgic inspiration.

The style features pointed arches, ribbed vaults, flying buttresses, and ornate tracery windows.

Neo-Gothic buildings mimic those aesthetics, but with modern materials.

Livraria Lello features several Neo-Gothic elements:

• Pointed arches – The doorways and architectural frames use the characteristic Gothic pointed arch shape.
• Ornate carved woodwork – Elaborate decorative carvings cover the walls and bookcases, mimicking the intricate stone tracery found in Gothic cathedrals.
• Ribbed details – The ceiling features decorative ribbing similar to Gothic vaulted ceilings.
• Vertical emphasis – The tall bookcases and soaring interior space create the upward-reaching feeling typical of Gothic architecture.
• Rich ornamentation – Every surface is decorated with Gothic-inspired motifs.

The façade has two painted figures representing Art and Science, twin pillars of knowledge. The intricate stone carvings and the arched entrance are all Neo-Gothic.

Inside, the famous red staircase and the stained glass skylight have features that are typical to the Art Nouveau style: the flowing curves, floral motifs, and organic patterns.

The two very different styles somehow work together in harmony in this space. Both styles contribute to a sense of drama and elevation.

Is Livraria Lello really connected to Harry Potter?

Livraria Lello is often linked to J K Rowling because she lived in Porto while teaching English in the 1990s.

The space does have a fantasy-like atmosphere that you may associate with Hogwarts, but Rowling herself hasn’t confirmed the influence.

Is Livraria Lello good for book lovers?

It’s good for book shopping, especially of the classics, but not for quiet browsing, as it’s busy with visitors taking photos.

I’m guessing a practical reason why the shop offers so many familiar classic titles on its shelves is that people don’t need to stop and browse for too long, they already know these books (or at least have heard of them).

Is Livraria Lello suitable for children?

Children can visit, but it is crowded and involves stairs and narrow walkways, so it’s not ideal for very young children.

There are some children’s books for sale at the shop.

Prams / pushchairs are not allowed.

What does the Livraria Lello gold ticket include?

The gold ticket includes a skip-the-line entry at a specific time slot and a book from the bookshop up to the price of the ticket.

It doesn’t include a guided tour of the bookshop.

Can you combine Livraria Lello with other attractions nearby ?

Yes. It fits well into a walk through central Porto and you can easily reach other Porto attractions, such as:

• Clérigos Tower (Torre dos Clérigos) – Iconic baroque bell tower with panoramic city views.
• Clérigos Church – Ornate 18th-century baroque church with stunning gilded interior.
• Carmo Church – Beautiful church with magnificent blue-and-white azulejo tile façade.
• Portuguese Centre of Photography – Former prison turned photography museum with fascinating exhibitions.
• São Bento Railway Station – Historic station featuring 20,000 spectacular azulejo tiles inside.
• Ribeira District – Picturesque riverside neighbourhood with medieval streets and restaurants. Follow this self-guided walking tour to get there.

Are there places to eat near Livraria Lello?

Yes, it’s right in the centre of Porto, so you’ll find cafes and restaurants nearby. I went to Kind Kitchen, about 3 minutes away.

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