Who wants to visit a hospital on vacation?
Sant Pau in Barcelona is a truly magical complex of Art Nouveau buildings, a beautifully restored historic site.
I visited the complex on my last trip to Barcelona and in this post you’ll find my review and why I think Sant Pau is well worth visiting.
A bit of background: The full name of the site is Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau or the Sant Pau Art Nouveau Site, but I’ll just call it Sant Pau in this guide.
Sant Pau used to be a famous hospital in Barcelona. It operated up until 2009, underwent a comprehensive restoration in 2009–2016, and became an attraction open to visitors.
It attracts people especially because of its extraordinary architecture and design.
Persoanlly, it was one of my best experiences in Barcelona.
Table of contents
The unique architecture of Sant Pau
The most remarkable thing about Sant Pau is that it doesn’t look like a typical hospital at all. The gorgeous buildings and rich decorations make it stand out.
This old hospital is a glorious example of the Catalan Art Nouveau style (Modernista in Spanish or Modernisme in Catalan) with Moorish influences.
Catalan Modernism was a cultural movement in Catalonia during the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
It’s around the same period when Art Nouveau spread all over Europe and beyond. Spain had its own version of that style, which left a profound mark on architecture, painting, crafts, and other arts.
Catalan Modernism featured elaborate details, nature-inspired elements, and a determination to depart from more traditional artistic forms.
Antoni Gaudí is the most famous ambassador of this style, but Sant Pau was designed by another influential figure in the Catalan Art Nouveau movement – architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner.
Two architectural gems by the same architect – Sant Pau and the Palau de la Música Catalana – made it to the UNESCO World Heritage List.
The UNESCO site describes the former hospital as “bold in its design and decoration, while at the same time perfectly adapted to the needs of the sick.”
This hospital is a wonderful demonstration of how an aesthetic environment can affect people’s health and recovery.
When you visit Sant Pau, you’ll see the elements of the local Catalan Art Nouveau style everywhere around you.
Look out for the colourful stained glass windows, the extensive use of mosaics, the beautiful domes, the decorated roofs and ceilings, the curved lines, and the plant motifs.
Tickets to Sant Pau
You can visit Sant Pau on a guided tour or on a self-guided tour, with or without an audio guide.
I booked my entry ticket here. I preferred a self-guided tour because I wanted to explore at my own pace on a flexible schedule.
I downloaded a PDF guide to use on my phone just after arriving at the site with an easy-to-follow route.
You can also see Sant Pau alongside other buildings by the same architect by getting the Domenech i Montaner’s Barcelona Pass.
It includes entry to Sant Pau, Palau de la Música Catalana, plus tapas and drinks at Hotel Casa Fuster.
What to see at Sant Pau
When you visit Sant Pau you’ll be walking through the historical buildings, as well as spending some time outside in the gardens and in between buildings.
Entering the complex and the history of Sant Pau
The first hall on the tour, the hypostyle, is unique for its columns and arches. It used to be the emergency room.
As you go towards the next room, you’ll see videos of medical staff and patients screened on the walls. I liked these subtle modern touches.
Shortly after entering the Sant Salvador Pavilion, I got a quick history lesson. I recommend you watch the film about the history of Sant Pau right as you enter. It’s a great way to put everything you see in context.
What is the history of the Sant Pau Hospital?
The history of the hospital goes back to 1401 when the Hospital of Santa Creu was established, but it was at a different location in El Raval district.
When the city of Barcelona expanded in the late 19th century, there was a need for a new general hospital.
The architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner designed several pavilions for different wards. It’s the largest Art Nouveau complex of buildings.
The model of the hospital complex shows the impressive design at a glance.
After watching the film, I saw the exhibition about the history of the hospital, including old objects, such as pharmacy bottles.
There’s a lot of information there, all with texts in English and easy to navigate.
From there, go up the stairs to see another exhibition. This one is about the architect, Lluís Domènech i Montaner. His hologram greets you in person when you enter.
This part of the tour is mostly educational, but apart from the exhibition, the hall itself is fascinating, so don’t forget to look up and around.
I especially liked the ceiling in this hall and the painted tiles on the walls and above the windows.
The Sant Pau gardens and exteriors
Next, go outside into the gardens. Take your time to look around, see the various buildings, and appreciate their impressive exteriors.
I visited Sant Pau on a sunny autumn day. The light was wonderful, so I spent quite a bit of time taking photos.
Walk around the buildings to see them from different angles. There are so many interesting details to spot.
I imagined as I walked around how pleasant it must have been for the patients to recover in such a delightful setting.
More Sant Pau pavilions and the tunnels
The Sant Pau tour continues with the operations theatre, followed by the Sant Rafael Pavilion.
This pavilion was particularly interesting for me because it had not been restored.
You can see the interior as it looked over 100 years ago, with the old ceiling and walls.
This part of Sant Pau was used for nursing. To help us imagine what it would have looked like, there are two rows of hospital beds, some old photos, and historical items.
The next part of the Sant Pau tour takes us underground. A network of over 1 km of tunnels connects the different pavilions in this complex.
It was used for moving patients around the hospital, as well as for distributing meals and medications.
You can go down into a tunnel and just pass through it to the other side.
Another pavilion worth noting is the Puríssima Pavilion. It has not been restored at all, so it lets you appreciate the effort and dedication invested into the restored pavilions.
The administration building – the highlight of Sant Pau
This tour of Sant Pau certainly saves the best for last.
While the word “administration” may not inspire a feeling of marvel, the most impressive piece of architecture and design in this complex is the administration building.
Both the interior and the exterior are magnificent. Both were restored and the richness of the decoration is stunning.
After you enter through a rather dramatic entrance hall, with its marble columns and pink mosaic tiles on the ceiling, go up the stairs.
The staircase was so splendid it made me feel like I was in an opera house, rather than a hospital.
It’s interesting to note that it was the same architect – Lluís Domènech i Montaner – who designed both Sant Pau and the gorgeous concert hall in Barcelona, Palau de la Música Catalana.
Look up when you climb the stairs to see the small stained-glass skylight.
When you reach the top of the stairs you’ll see the wonderful Lluís Domènech i Montaner hall.
The decoration in this hall is a unique mix of arts, crafts, and architecture. It has sculptures, stained glass, ceramics, paintings, and mosaics.
Is Sant Pau worth visiting?
I ended my Sant Pau tour after a couple of hours of constant fascination.
In a city that has such an abundance of architectural beauty, it easily made my top 10 Barcelona experiences.
I think Sant Pau is well worth visiting if you’re interested in architecture in Spain, but also if you simply love great design.
The restoration work is exceptional, the tour is informative and easy to follow (with or without a guide), and the story behind the buildings makes them even more interesting.
The place does attract tourists, but there weren’t too many people when I visited.
Its location is just a little bit out of the city centre, but I found it very easy to reach with public transport.
Compared to the hordes of tourists you see in other, more famous attractions in Barcelona, this one is less crowded, which is a big plus in my opinion.
Save this Sant Pau review on Pinterest
